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2003 Domaine Matassa Blanc, bottle# 0463

March 16, 2010

Tasted this sometime last year and when Keith showed it to me I don’t think I said anything very encouraging. I just nodded, thinking “what is wrong with you, why didn’t you drink this years ago?”. Man was I glad he didn’t.

2003 was the hottest vintage in many a European’s living memory. For years I’ve steered clear of most 2003 red let alone white. This wine was a huge surprise. It was oddly balanced and against all logic I wondered if it would be better in a year.

Yellow brass color. Golden raisin, apricot and caramelized lemon peel. Suspicions of car exhaust. The palate was much less flamboyant and somehow incredibly fresh. Astounding minerality married to an oily texture. The alcohol was in check and the acidity was medium. The finish: like emerging from a brook spitting rocks, hint of bloody lip and all. Weird, unbelievable wine.

What to pair with this? Maybe steamed mussels (but I say that for all sorts of wine). Better would be langoustines with an as yet unknown perfect sauce. Something with as delicate and ineffable a flavor as this.

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